Are There Local Oysters in Our Future?
“This,” my uncle told me, “is the best food to ever exist.” He spun the icy plate around, with its small dishes of cocktail sauce and horseradish, its wedges of lemon, and presented me half of a glistening shell containing a small lump of briny meat. “It’s local,” he informed me.
The Chesapeake Bay’s oysters play an important role on the Eastern Shore; both on our plates and for the health of the bay. They’re cherished, but they also face adversity. “Oysters are very sensitive and responsive to environmental changes,” Matthew Gray tells me. Gray studies how changes in the environment impact the bay’s oysters at the University of Maryland’s Center for Environmental Studies.
For Gray and other ecologists, human-caused impacts like climate change and agricultural pollution are cause for concern. One consequence of a warming climate is increasingly powerful storms that dump higher volumes of rain faster than ever before. As it happens, warmer air can hold more water. As these torrents fall more frequently, rain water can enter salty rivers so fast that they can actually start to run fresh. That can stress the oysters.
“Feeding rates are salinity dependent,” Gray tells me. “Outside of their optimum, feeding rates decline and will generally cease at very low levels.” If that happens, entire areas can experience oyster die-offs. “They may still expend energy to respire, but they aren’t taking in any more food and likely headed towards a moribund state.” After about a week of extreme salinity stress, oysters may die.
That happened recently in Texas. After the record-breaking rains from Hurricane Harvey in 2017, the oysters of Galveston Bay were seriously affected, even though the overall impact to the population is still unclear. A similar thing happened in the spring of 2011 when heavy rains killed upwards of 80% of oysters in the northern Chesapeake Bay.
These increasingly powerful storms can also pull more pollutants from human activities on land into the oyster’s environment. Rising water temperature and ocean acidification, further consequences of climate change, can also have an impact on oyster health. When combined, these factors threaten one of the Eastern Shore’s most iconic harvests.
With the pressures of climate change, agricultural runoff, and other human impacts, it’s unclear what kind of future the Chesapeake Bay oyster will find itself in. I can still conjure up the emotion of that first oyster, with its tangy finish, as it slid past my tongue. Hopefully, far into the future, oysters won’t be just a memory.
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Common Sense for the Eastern Shore


